Panasonic TX-P42UT50B Plasma 3D TV Review

We’ve looked through nearly all of Panasonic’s 2012 Viera plasma lineup already, with one exception being the the frequently requested UT50 series, which topped the interest of our readers when we asked them what they’d like to see scrutinised next. The TX-P42UT50B sits below the ST50, GT50 and VT50 Panasonic plasma TVs, although it still features a Full HD 1920×1080 panel, and DVB-T2 (Freeview HD) tuner.

Compared to the ST50, the only main missing image quality related feature is the Infinite Black Pro anti-reflective screen coating. The tech specs also mention 6,144 steps of gradation compared to the step-up ST50’s 12,288, although we’ve found such differences to be subtle in the past. There are also only 2 HDMI inputs instead of the 3 found on the ST50, and the 4 from the GT50 and VT50.

In our opinion, the 2012 Panasonic plasma televisions are the best performing flat-screen HDTVs on the market today, owing to the value for money on offer and the comparatively benign shortcomings (which we’ll go into in this review). Can that high level of performance be maintained at this lower price point? Let’s find out.

Note: the firmware was updated to the most current version at the time of going to press (PAL12 PEAKS version 1.256). This had a miniscule effect on Greyscale tracking and Colour Luminance accuracy (for the better).

Note: The specific model we reviewed was the Panasonic TX-P42UT50B, which denotes the 3-pin-plug British version. Although we did not test the larger, 50-inch TX-P50UT50B, picture performance should be similar since the specifications of different models within the UT50 range are identical except for screen size.

Design

The TX-P42UT50 looks like a mixture of old and new Panasonic designs. There’s the ubiquitous gloss black frame surrounding the panel, which will probably look just fine when the TV is new. Our review sample had a good amount of micro-scratches visible with even a small amount of room light, though, meaning that like with most gloss black finishes, it probably won’t look as new after a few wipes with a cleaning cloth. And the new? The more daring design touches include the Samsung-esque transparent “crystal” outer trim, and a metallic silver finish at the bottom of the panel. The stand is a basic gloss black affair.

Panasonic TX-P42UT50B

The TXP42UT50B also dispenses with the ultra-slim profile shared by the ST, GT and VT50 series: the UT50 is about as deep as flagship plasmas from a few years ago. We don’t really see that as a problem, although it does mean that it won’t necessarily mount quite as close to the wall, if you plan on going down that route.

Packed with the TXP42UT50 is the older Panasonic remote control variant. It’s not backlit like the newer version (included with the ST50 and up) is, but on the plus side, it’s made of matte plastic, rather than the nonsensical gloss black finish on the new version (why style the one thing you’ll be touching most in a finish that picks up fingerprints so easily?). There is one difference, though: the UT50’s remote features the return of the dreaded Panasonic “N” button.

“What is the N button?”, you ask. Mostly found on Panasonic remote controls of years past, the N button is the one which completely resets the picture settings on the television, without asking if you’re sure. So powerful is the N button that you can even point it at Panasonic TVs whose own remote controls don’t feature it, and it will even wipe their picture settings too. What does the N stand for? We can only guess, but do not press it, and absolutely do not press it in front of your friend’s ISF-calibrated plasma.

Connections

  • 2 HDMI inputs
  • 1 Component input
  • 1 SCART input
  • Aerial input (DVB-T2 / “Freeview HD”)
  • SD Card slot
  • Ethernet port

Only 2 HDMI inputs? It’s true… we imagine a good number of UT50 users will be investing in HDMI switches. Of course, if you run all your devices through an HDMI AV receiver anyway, this limitation won’t be a problem.

Rear connections on Panasonic TX-P42UT50B
Rear connections on Panasonic TX-P42UT50B

Since it uses a non-slim chassis design, all of the TX-P42UT50’s connections are made directly to the back of the HDTV, without the need for breakout adapter cables. There’s no built-in wireless receiver either, meaning that you’ll need to use the wired ethernet port for the Viera Connect online “smart TV” functions.

Operation

The on screen menus on the Panasonic TXP42UT50B are the same as those found on the ST50 series. We’re delighted and relieved to see that the company’s “True Cinema” mode, which is the “don’t mess with the picture” option, is present.

Additionally, the [advance(Calibration)] option in the menus can be enabled to unlock some advanced picture setup controls, which include a 2-point Greyscale calibration menu, a basic Gamma curve selection (useful for tailoring the brightness distribution of the screen to suit brighter or darker viewing environments), and three-axis control (that’s over Saturation, Hue and Luminance) of the red, green and blue colour gamut points. To make any meaningful adjustments to the Greyscale and Colour options, though, do remember that you need access to a calibration meter and software – these settings can’t be correctly set by eye alone.

[Picture] menu
[Picture] menu
[Picture] menus

The implementation of the [Contrast] control has differed across Panasonic’s plasma ranges this year. On the ST50 series and below, raising it produces more light output from the panel, although taking it too high will crush out some details in bright white areas (although the lost details are not at the level commonly found in any video material, meaning that it’s a worthwhile trade-off for brighter rooms, or if you simply want to maximise the contrast ratio of the panel, at the slight expense of dynamic range). On the GT50 and VT50 series, which feature two “Professional” memory modes rather than the “True Cinema” mode, this doesn’t work, with these models having their light output capped in their most useful picture modes.

The UT50 is like the ST50 in this regard, meaning that it’s possible to tailor the screen brightness to a wider variety of viewing environments. However, even after turning the [CATS] (ambient light sensor) option off, the Panasonic TX-P42UT50B’s peak light output was a paltry 63 cd/m2 with a white test pattern window. Normally when we calibrate HDTVs, we aim for 120 cd/m2 so that everything is on a level playing field, making the TXP42UT50’s images half as bright as we’d like. Fortunately, turning the [Contrast] control up to its higher settings resulted in more realistic light output, although the upper extremes began to clip the aforementioned whiter-than-white shades. Given the choice of compromising screen brightness or compromising dynamic range, we chose the latter, since the whiter-than-white shades are not too common in video content. At the highest possible setting, the TXP42UT50B produced 120 cd/m2.

 

25 comments

  1. Great review David! I bought the ut last week and I’ve been blown away by picture quality on this tv. Coming from an old (but good) 32″ lcd the jump is immense. Quality/price ratio on this set is simply unbelievable considering it wipes out tvs in the 1500-2000 euro price range.
    Games are simply amazing, delicious Wii sidescrolling platformers came to life, with an always-on-focus almost 3dimensional picture. Donkey Kong Country must be seen to be believed.
    I’d have a couple of question for you David if you mind answer :)
    -YOu suggest to crank up contrast all the way up to maximize contrast, but i don’t see any actual difference in white level nor in overall screen brightness after the values of 46/60 and 50/60 in True Cinema and Game mode respectively (in euro models it’s numbered from 0 to 60 and default at 36 and 42 in True Cinema and Game mode respectively). Is this a thing you can only appreciate in measurements? I find it fairly bright at these setting anyways , more than the level I used my lcd at.
    -Is it mandatory to turn on game mode to achieve 16ms input lag (i use it this way however because i’m convinces that games look correct with cool ct, and that can’t be changed in true cinema). Related to this, what ahould be the “correct” gamma setting in game mode? I find 2.4 or even the default 2.2 look good (i also noticed that the “s-curve” setting for some reason makes whites look strongly reddish, but I don’t see the point using it after all).
    THANK YOU

  2. Hey Fabri,

    No, you should definitely notice an increase in light output when you dial the contrast control upwards. It’s blatantly visible. Perhaps the UK-specific version is different?

    Modern games are increasingly designed on accurate monitors. Any professionally made game will surely be designed to video standards, so “Cool” will be wrong in that case. Provided you’re in True Cinema with IFC turned off, you should be OK for lag.

  3. Panasonic claims that the UT50 series have no Neo Plasma panel…:
    http://panasonic.net/avc/viera/eu/comparison_plasma.html

  4. Gozmol – good catch. We tend not to pay too much attention to the branding, since as we’ve seen, the performance is basically the same.

  5. They can brand it whatever they want, and even if it’s not oficially called “NeoPlasma”, it still performs like one.
    It can be clearly seen from the measurements.

  6. Nice review!
    For what its worth the dreaded N button, comes from the pro line Normalize button on the remote which brings everything back to factory defaults at once.
    Does the UT50 store HDMI 1 & HDMI 2 calibration settings, or does any change affect all input sources?

  7. David, nice review (as usual) !

    Did you measure UT50 grayscale using window patterns or small APL ones?

    I agree with you, UT50 definitely needs a dark environment to show off your strenghts (black level). In a bright room, picture is dull and a lot of reflections.

    Cheers!

  8. Hi Marcos – greyscale was done with windows.
    Evan – the settings are shared per picture mode rather than per input. Except for Colour Management which is input specific, weirdly.

  9. Excellent review! I’ve got one question regarding ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiting), i received the TV today and i’m very happy with it, but whites aren’t as bright as i thought they would be (this is my first plasma). Is there a way to make whites brighter? I’ve tried adjusting contrast and brightness levels but they didn’t make much of a difference.

    Any advise would be welcome.

    Cheers

  10. excellent budget TV, and thanks David for the JSR ;)

  11. Rider on the Storm

    Awesome review. Just one question: Do you need to run plasma TV’s for 200 hours in order to break-in the TV or is it just a myth?

    Cheers

  12. The “N” stands for normalise. BIt daft to put that button on when you’ve spent ages lining up the TV.

  13. Is this set any good with the internet or DLNA? I currently use a P42G20B that struggles with both, particularly DLNA. It recognises an Icybox NAS but refuses to play anything (movies) and doesn’t even see my new Synology NAS.

    Thanks.

  14. Benjamin (The Netherlands)

    Hello David,

    Great and most of all, very usefull review. I’m “sick” of that blue/gray background which almost all CCFL-LCD & LED-LCD screens have. So after talking to many sellers at different hifi-shops, the conclusion is that I NEED a plasma.
    I’m a big movie-fan, and the most important thing to me is that black must be black.
    I never have direct sunlight in the room where the plasma will be, but enough indirect light to light-up to room, so I probally see a reflection of myself in the screen. But during the day and in the afternoon, material watched will be news, programs and “soapies” for the mrs.
    Movie watching will be mostly at night, with just one little LED-design light in a corner, so almost in the dark. I’m a big fan of horror and thriller movies…
    I have an Apple TV 2 boxie, AC Ryan 1080P mediaplayer and a Blue Ray player, enough “Smart” functions and connectivity…

    I’m with a big dilema now. I converted the Dutch “euro” prices to GBP to make it a bit easier to understand.
    The TX-P42UT50(E) is priced at 460,- GBP,
    The TX-P42ST50(E) is priced at (just) 540,- GBP…
    Just a difference of 80,- GBP…..

    So, which one should I buy?
    My budget is around 460 to 470 GBP, but fur just 80 GBP more, I have…..
    Is the difference between both totally worth the 80 GBP more?
    Please advice me..!!

    Thanks and regards,
    Benjamin
    The Netherlands

  15. Got this TV last week and unfortunately there is’nt any build-in THX settings like what G/ST-models are shipped with.

    I’ve noticed are bit too green/yellow shade in the picture and have searched for a detailed calibration to use. I found these ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1412033/the-official-panasonic-ut50-settings-issues-thread ), but the settings are not useful, because the US-models are not similar in meny settings. For example the settings for contrast goes up to 100 over there and only up to 60 in European models.

    Are there anyone who have calibrated their UT50 and would share the settings? Would really appreciate any help….

  16. I probally know why my previous post won’t get an answer (red the “conditions” on the contact page).

    Both the TX-P42UT50 & TX-P42ST50 are great AFTER calibration.
    But what about us, consumers, who use the tv just like out-of-the-box ?
    What can we do to get the same result?
    We can change the gamma and contrast values as described.
    But what about RGB calibration etc etc.?
    For example, the issue that Awan mentions, how can he solve it? Just keep on trying till it’s gone or compromise?

    Question aout the screen of the TX-P42UT50, anyone problems with the reflection?

    Regards,
    Benjamin

  17. Benjamin, I have a 42ut50 and I have to say it is a truly great tv, even without calibration. Coming from lcd, I’ve literally been blown away from this tv picture quality; I still can’t realize after a month I own it how good it is, especially for the money it comes at. I’m quite picky about picture quality and I went through 4 lcds in the past few months before sorting to this tv, and it has been truly a night/day change.
    This plasma has a vey crt-like feeling image, but coupled with supreme definition, contrast, colours and geometry. Best thing is the absolute absence of blur that makes the picture always to be in focus and this, among with the great contrast, makes for a truly life-like 3d picture (even in 2d!).
    You haven’t to worry about calibration, because if you aren’t already accustomed to a perfectly calibrated display you will never really pick the negligible inaccuracies. You even don’t have to mess around too much with settings, because once set in True Cinema you are almost already done; it is a great factory preset and you only have to turn up a bit the contrast setting to about 3/4 and this is it (plus setting gamma to 2.4 if that’s your preference).
    In regard of reflections, in my light controlled environment I don’t have any problem at all. I generally use my tv with a small abat-jour in a corner on and it is perfect. In a bright setting reflections are noticeable about the same grade they would on a tube tv, i.e. it remains watchable but you lose much contrast. In this case the st50 is generally reccomended, but honestly I wouldn’t see myself enjoying my tv in such an environment in any case, so I went for the filter-less ut50 (which btw is said to have a very slightly more brilliant picture due to the absence of the filter, and a full 180 degree viewing angle in any direction).

  18. Hello Fabri,

    Thank you very much for your information, I appreciate it a lot.
    Don’t need to worry anymore about calibrating the whole darn.
    What is ” a bright setting” to you?
    Watching tv during the day won’t be with the “True cinema” setting anyway.
    Less darkness do to higher brightness/contrast setting isn’t so important, you just want a picture that is in balance with the light setting.

    Question about the ABL – Automatic Brightness Limiting, do you notice anything using your settings?

    Regards,
    Benjamin

  19. Hello everybody,

    I bought the TX-P42UT50E (europe model) today and hooked it up directly.
    Picture/image quality is perfect, like many of you say, it’s really natural and detailed.
    But the “black is black” or better said, black should be black.
    I set the tv to True Cinema, Gamma up to 2.4, contrast to 40 (maximum is 60).
    When I turn the tv off, the screen is black, when I turn it off, it becomes a bit dark grey, uniform, but it’s just not black anymore…
    Is this a setting? Or just the plasma screen?
    Does the TX-P42ST50 not have this due to it’s Neoplasma/Infinite Black pro screen?

    Regards,
    Benjamin

  20. Excuse me, but I just had an UT50 at home and cannot share your enthusiasm. The picture is way too dark, blacks are grey (never ever close inky black) and white is at best bright grey. And it flickers when it comes to an fully bright picture. And pictures seem to be never really crisp and sharp. Even not when You are watching Blu ray. I have to admit, picture then is good, but never as perfect as on a good LED-LCD. Sorry!

  21. Benjamin (The Netherlands)

    Hello again,

    Have been watching some tv programs and full HD / 1080P material on the plasma.
    Like Dean says, the screen flickers a bit at fully bright pictures.
    When I watch movies in full HD = 1080P progrssive, I still have LAG, using True Cinema setting. When the camera pans, the picture “stotters”, and some slight ghosting can be seen…
    Is this a setting? Can I change this?

  22. I am about to purchase this tv and wondered if there is a guide or step by step as to the best settings for picture viewing.
    Obviously without the need for specialist equipment.

    Thanks

  23. ///
    “images which wouldn’t trigger the dimming on the ST50 did appear slightly dimmed on the UT50, suggesting that the ABL kicks in sooner on this cheaper model”
    ///

    Did you by any chance measure the brightness with 100% APL (full screen white) on both a UT50 and an ST50 (and possibly on others)?
    I wonder if the UT50 has significantly inferior power supply unit and/or panel driver circuits.

    I always forgot to take these measurements on the VT50s and ST50s I calibrated and I never met with any UT50s (or GT50s for that matter) yet, so I have no idea about this except your comment in this review.

    Personally, I don’t need an AR filter, so if I were to buy one of these Panasonic xx50 models, then the UT50 could be my best friend.
    I was never really satisfied with my G30’s motion handling after a Samsung D550 (which made me mad after the “crazy floating black” history started with a firmware upgrade), but these Panasonic panels work fine, while they offer a really great contrast ratio, which makes me want one of them. :)

    By the way…
    I measured a PS51E8000 and the “crazy floating black” issue is still there!
    Black screen and ANSI table are both fine, but I could catch black levels as high as 0.14 cd/m^2 while measuring the black bar below actual movie content (I didn’t even need to use the “Dynamic Contrast test video from the AVSHD709 test disk…).

  24. Hi Guys
    Firstly thanks for this great review. I have the TXP42UT50B (UK version) of the TV and while it really has great picture, especially good for watching movies in the dark however suffers from the whole screen flicker. I find that not acceptable for me and especially don’t want my kids to experience this as it surely can’t be good for them. The flicker is always present but mostly noticeable on brighter images, the effect is like looking at a 50 Hz CRT TV. I can see that when looking at the menus, watching from the built in apps (i.e. Netflix), media server, PS3 (outputting both 24 and 60 Hz) – I noticed that immediately after switching the TV. The TV is rated 2500 HZ– so I was expecting a rock solid picture, but it’s not screen refresh rate, is it?
    Can this be helped in any way? And if it cannot as this is a normal feature why is this not covered in this (or any that I found for that matter) review? Surely that is an important detail.
    I would really like to keep the TV but as I can’t accept the flicker and I am considering exchanging it for Panasonic TX-L42E5B which being a LED should not flicker at all (right?).
    The TV is rated 2500 HZ– so I was expecting a rock solid picture, but it’s not screen refresh rate, is it?

  25. In reply to Jimmi
    I have just purchased a 50 UT50z (New Zealand model). I love it. But when I initially turned it on I did notice the picture was a little “jumpy” in certain scenes It’s as if the camera shooting the scene isn’t perfectly isolated from vibrations. Maybe this is the “flickering” you are describing. It took me a few hours to minimise this artefact through tweaking, where now this effect is now almost gone.
    Here are the settings I have got currently.
    Picture mode : Cinema (I found true cinema too yellow out of the box without further tweaking.
    Contrast 75
    Brightness +2
    Sharpness 53
    Colour 45
    Vivid Colour off
    Eco mode off
    Advanced enabled under set up
    White balance – minus some red out of the red gain- Mine has slightly too much red in the white making scenes a bit too warm
    24 fps smoothing low or Intelligent frame creation Low – These have the most effect on minimising flicker/ jitter.
    Picture noise reduction off ( or low to further reduce flicker…the film grain can sometimes mimic flicker through the encoding)
    Further, I noticed 24fps blu rays look the best, the 50 hz stuff isn’t great at all.

    Finally, a plasma needs “getting used to” coming from a CRT or LCD as in my case. There will be artefacts that can never fully be ironed out.

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